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Mortgage Refinance Calculator

Compare your current mortgage with a refinanced loan to see if switching makes financial sense. Calculate monthly savings, total interest, and your break-even point.

Refinance Formulas

Monthly Payment

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Break-Even Point

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Total Interest

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Current Mortgage

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New Loan

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When Does Refinancing Make Sense?

Refinancing your mortgage means replacing your current home loan with a new one, usually to get a lower interest rate or different terms. It's not always the right move though, so it's worth running the numbers first.

The general rule of thumb is that refinancing makes sense when you can lower your rate by at least 0.5-1%, plan to stay in your home long enough to pass the break-even point, and the closing costs are reasonable relative to your savings.

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Lower Your Rate

Even a 0.5% rate drop can save thousands over the life of a loan

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Reduce Monthly Payments

Free up cash each month for other financial goals

Change Your Term

Switch from a 30-year to 15-year mortgage to pay off faster

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Cash-Out Option

Tap into your home equity for renovations or debt payoff

Understanding the Break-Even Point

The break-even point is probably the single most important number when deciding whether to refinance. It tells you how many months it takes for your monthly savings to cover the closing costs you paid upfront.

For example, if your closing costs are $4,000 and you save $200 per month, your break-even point is 20 months. If you plan to sell or move before those 20 months are up, refinancing would actually cost you money.

Most financial advisors suggest refinancing only if you'll stay in the home at least 2-3 years past the break-even point. This gives you a comfortable buffer and ensures the savings are meaningful.

Common Refinancing Mistakes to Avoid

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Resetting to 30 Years

If you're 10 years into a 30-year mortgage and refinance into a new 30-year term, you'll pay interest for 40 total years. Consider a shorter term if you can afford slightly higher payments.

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Ignoring Closing Costs

Closing costs typically run 2-5% of the loan amount. A 'no-closing-cost' refinance usually means the costs are rolled into a higher rate, which can cost more long-term.

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Only Looking at the Rate

A lower rate doesn't always mean a better deal. Factor in the term length, closing costs, and how long you plan to keep the loan before comparing offers.

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Not Shopping Around

Rates can vary by 0.5% or more between lenders. Get at least 3-4 quotes and don't be afraid to negotiate. Each lender wants your business.

How to use this refinance calculator

  1. Enter your Current Loan Balance ($) — the remaining principal from your latest mortgage statement, not your original loan amount.
  2. Type your Current Interest Rate (%) and Months Remaining on Current Loan — both are on the statement or in your amortization schedule.
  3. Enter the New Interest Rate (%) you've been quoted and the New Loan Term (months) you're considering (180 for 15-year, 360 for 30-year).
  4. Enter Closing Costs ($) — ask the lender for a Loan Estimate; total fees usually run 2%–5% of the loan amount.
  5. Click Calculate Refinance to see the new monthly payment, monthly savings, break-even point in months, and lifetime cost difference.

Examples

Rate-and-term refi: 7% down to 5.5% on a $300k loan

A homeowner with a fresh $300,000 30-year mortgage at 7.0% sees rates fall to 5.5% one year later. They want to refinance into another 30-year term to drop the monthly payment as far as possible.

ResultCurrent payment about $1,996/month. New payment about $1,703/month. Monthly savings about $293. With $5,400 in closing costs, the break-even point is about 19 months. After year 2, every month is pure savings.

The calculator runs M = P·r(1+r)^n / ((1+r)^n − 1) twice, once with r = 0.07/12 and once with r = 0.055/12, holding P = $300,000 and n = 360. The $293 monthly delta divided into $5,400 of fees gives the break-even. As long as the homeowner stays past month 19, the refinance is profitable; if they sell at month 18 or earlier, they lose money.

Cash-out refi for a kitchen remodel

An owner with $250,000 left on a 20-year mortgage at 4.0% has $200,000 in home equity. They take a $310,000 cash-out refinance at 6.25% for 30 years to pull $60,000 for renovations, after paying off the old loan.

ResultCurrent payment about $1,515/month on the original loan. New payment about $1,909/month on the larger loan over a longer term. The payment goes UP by roughly $394/month, so the calculator shows no break-even — this isn't an interest-savings move, it's a liquidity move worth about $60,000 cash in hand.

Cash-out refis usually carry rates 0.125%–0.5% higher than rate-and-term refis and you're borrowing more, so payments rise. Lenders cap the combined loan-to-value (typically 80%) and require the new balance plus cash-out to fit. Compare the after-tax cost of this approach to a HELOC or home equity loan before committing — the renovation must be worth the lifetime interest hit.

Shorter-term refi to retire the loan faster

A homeowner is three years into a 25-year mortgage with $220,000 remaining at 6.75% (264 months left). Rates have dropped, and they refinance into a new 15-year loan at 5.0% to build equity faster and pay off before retirement.

ResultCurrent payment about $1,602/month for 264 more months. New payment about $1,740/month for 180 months — only $138 more each month, but the loan ends 7 years earlier. Total interest drops from roughly $203,000 to about $93,000, saving more than $106,000 even after $3,500 in closing costs.

Shorter-term refis carry lower rates (often 0.5%–0.75% under 30-year rates) because lenders take less duration risk. Cutting n from 264 to 180 forces faster principal paydown, so interest is computed on a shrinking balance for far fewer months. The calculator's Total Savings (after costs) field captures this lifetime view, which is much larger than the monthly savings figure for term-shortening refis.

How it works

The calculator computes two amortization streams: your current loan from today forward, and the proposed new loan. Both use M = P·r(1+r)^n / ((1+r)^n − 1), where P is the balance, r is the monthly rate (annual ÷ 12), and n is the number of remaining or new monthly payments. The difference between the two M values is your monthly savings.

Break-even is the cleanest yardstick. Dividing closing costs by monthly savings (Closing Costs ÷ Monthly Savings) gives the number of months you need to stay in the loan just to recover what you spent on fees. Refinancing only beats your current loan once you pass that point.

The lifetime view adds two pieces. Current Total Cost is your current payment times the months you have left. New Total Cost is the new payment times the new term, plus closing costs. The difference is Total Savings (after costs) — negative if you'd actually lose money lifetime, even when the monthly figure looks attractive.

The calculator does not model interest you've already paid on the current loan (it's sunk), tax-deductible mortgage interest, or PMI changes from a higher LTV after a cash-out. Those factors can swing the decision and belong in a fuller analysis with your lender's Loan Estimate.

When to use this calculator

  • Rates have dropped since you closed. If your current rate is 0.5%–1.0% above today's market, run the numbers. Even a 0.75% drop on a $300,000 balance is typically $150+ in monthly savings.
  • Comparing rate-and-term offers from multiple lenders. Lock the loan balance and term, change only the rate and closing costs, and see which combination gives the shortest break-even and best lifetime cost.
  • Considering a cash-out refinance. Compare the new larger monthly payment to your current payment plus a separate HELOC or home equity loan. The calculator shows the all-in monthly cost of the cash-out route.
  • Shortening your term. Test a switch from 30-year to 15- or 20-year. Even if monthly cost rises, the Total Savings field can show six-figure lifetime interest savings.
  • Evaluating a no-closing-cost offer. Enter $0 closing costs with the higher quoted rate. Compare against the standard offer with the lower rate and real closing costs — pick whichever wins over your expected stay.
  • Stress-testing your moving plans. If your break-even is 28 months but you might relocate at month 20, you'd lose money. The calculator lets you set the assumed stay against the break-even number.

Common mistakes

  • MistakeComparing only the new monthly payment to the old one.
    FixAlways include closing costs and the new term length. A lower payment on a fresh 30-year clock can hide tens of thousands in extra lifetime interest. Use the Total Savings (after costs) figure as the deciding number.
  • MistakeForgetting that closing costs include more than lender fees.
    FixTitle insurance, appraisal, recording fees, prepaid escrow, and discount points all sit inside the Loan Estimate's total. Pull the bottom-line cash-to-close number, not just the origination charge.
  • MistakeRestarting the amortization clock without doing the math.
    FixIf you're 8 years into a 30-year loan and refinance into a new 30-year, you've added 8 years of payments. Either choose a shorter new term or plan to keep making the higher old-payment amount voluntarily.
  • MistakeTreating a 'no-cost' refinance as actually free.
    FixLenders recover those costs through a higher rate (typically 0.25%–0.5% above the rate with normal closing costs). Run both scenarios and pick the one with better lifetime cost for your expected stay.
  • MistakeIgnoring PMI when running a cash-out refinance.
    FixIf the cash-out pushes the loan above 80% loan-to-value, the lender will add private mortgage insurance — typically 0.5%–1.0% of the loan annually. That can erase the rate savings, so confirm your new LTV before deciding.
  • MistakeUsing your original loan amount instead of the current balance.
    FixYears of payments have reduced what you actually owe. Enter the principal balance from your most recent mortgage statement; using the original loan size overstates the new payment and break-even point.

Frequently asked questions

How is the break-even point calculated?

Break-even is closing costs divided by monthly savings. If you pay $5,000 in fees to drop your payment by $250/month, your break-even is 5,000 ÷ 250 = 20 months. Past that, every month of staying in the loan is net savings. Selling or refinancing again before break-even means you lost money on the refi.

When does refinancing actually make sense?

Three things usually need to be true: the new rate is at least 0.5%–1.0% below your current rate, you plan to stay in the home well past the break-even point, and your credit and equity qualify for the best-pricing tier. If any one of those is missing, run the calculator anyway — the lifetime numbers may still favor it for term-shortening or cash-out goals.

What's the difference between rate-and-term and cash-out refinancing?

A rate-and-term refinance replaces your loan with a new one at a different rate or term but the same balance — the goal is lower cost. A cash-out refinance pays off the old loan and borrows extra, giving you the difference in cash. Cash-out rates are usually 0.125%–0.5% higher, and lenders typically cap combined loan-to-value at 80%.

Will refinancing hurt my credit score?

A refinance triggers a hard inquiry, which usually drops your FICO score by 5 points or fewer. The credit bureaus' rate-shopping window (14–45 days depending on the model) lets you compare multiple lenders as a single inquiry. Scores typically recover within a few months as the new account ages.

Do I have to re-pay PMI when I refinance?

Only if your new loan is above 80% loan-to-value. If your equity has grown so the new balance is at or below 80% of the appraised value, no PMI applies on a conventional refinance — even if you originally paid PMI. A cash-out refi that raises the loan above 80% LTV will trigger PMI on the new loan.

What is a no-closing-cost refinance?

It's a refinance where the lender covers the closing costs in exchange for a higher interest rate, typically 0.25%–0.5% above the rate you'd get if you paid the fees yourself. Run both scenarios — for a short expected stay, no-cost often wins; for staying many years, paying the fees and taking the lower rate usually wins.

How long does the refinance process take?

Most refinances close in 30–45 days from application. Streamline refinances (FHA, VA IRRRL) can be faster because they skip appraisal and full income re-verification. Delays usually come from appraisal scheduling, title issues, or the lender's underwriting backlog rather than the borrower.

What's an FHA streamline or VA IRRRL refinance?

Both are simplified refinance programs for existing FHA or VA borrowers. They drop the rate without a full credit re-underwrite, often without an appraisal, and with lower fees. The trade-off is they only reduce rate-and-term — no cash-out — and they require that the refinance produce a 'net tangible benefit' (lower payment or shorter term).

What are typical closing costs on a refinance?

Expect 2%–5% of the loan amount. On a $300,000 refinance that's $6,000–$15,000, covering origination, appraisal ($500–$700), title insurance, recording fees, prepaid escrow, and any discount points. Compare the Loan Estimate (a federally standardized form) from at least three lenders before locking.

Should I roll closing costs into the new loan?

You can, but the math gets worse. Rolling $6,000 into the loan at 6% over 30 years adds about $36/month and roughly $7,000 in lifetime interest. If you have the cash, pay upfront. If rolling them in is the only way to refinance and your break-even still clears comfortably, it's an acceptable trade — just add the rolled-in fees to the closing costs input to see the honest break-even.

Sources

Methodology

The calculator computes the current monthly payment from the current balance, current rate, and months remaining, and the proposed monthly payment from the same balance (or higher in a cash-out scenario), the new rate, and the new term, using M = P·r(1+r)^n / ((1+r)^n − 1) with r as the monthly rate. Monthly savings is the difference between the two payments; break-even is closing costs divided by monthly savings; lifetime savings compares total cash outflows including closing costs over each loan's full remaining term.

Pro Tips

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